Since these shades are available second-hand pretty cheap, this is a silly thing to make unless you have an oddball front standard. I’d made one years ago for my old 5×7, but it was a little bulky to use for my new camera. After spending the morning trying in vain to find the outside dimensions of the Toyo-View compendium hood I just made one out of materials I had on hand. Why do retailers list the size of the bloody box it comes in, and not the sizeof the unit itself? I went through the same thing trying to find a low profile cold shoe.
The mounting brackets are Delrin, both were bored for 5/16″ SS tubing. A 1/16″ slit was cut and a cross hole threaded for 10-32 thumbscrews to clamp the brackets onto the tube. One bracket has a slot to attach the frame, and a foot was milled onto the other for mounting into the cold shoe.
The bellows are made from nylon fabric, not exactly light proof, but opaque enough for a lens shade. I made a pattern in CAD, and printed it on photo paper (330 GSM Moab Lasal), then cut out the 1/8″ fold lines (the pleats are 1/2″ on center). The diagonal lines are the seams, the liner seam is on top, the outer seam is on the bottom. I used Loctite spray adhesive to glue the fabric and pattern together, and used double stick tape to attach the bellows to the frames.
The frames were made from 1/8″ Garolite. The bracket arms are 1/16″ aluminum, riveted together at the pivots. The pivots are tight enough so the shade can articulate and hold its shape. The bellows will extend to 5″ for longer lenses, and can be pushed out further on the rod if needed. The arms are attach to the frames with some angle aluminum stock and low profile 8-32 post screws.
A bit rustic, but works fine. I would prefer to have a hinged connection on top of the standard so the shade can be flipped out of the way to better access the lens controls, but the Delrin blocks allow the shade to be slipped on and off pretty easily so it’s good enough for now. I’ll probably switch the tube to a solid 5/16″ rod, and mill a registration keyway in it. A nylon-tipped set screw or ball plunger installed in each block would ride in the key and keep the frame aligned with the standard without having to tighten the locking knobs so much.